Friday, December 19, 2014

Toydrift 2 December 2014 Best Day Drifting

Had a Splendid time at Toydrift on December 13th. Was driving really well and the car was awesome. Unfortunately the day ended short at 2:30pm due to a weld failing on my suspension.
amdrift.com killed the photo taking game! These guys always get great shots of pro and grassroots drift events. Check out their articles and albums!
 
Team Inca Madness Racing was out there killin it, they took some awesome shots and put together this really well done video. Check them out, they are going to compete in FormulaD for the 2015 season!  Team IMR's YouTube Channel in the link below.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF AMDRIFT.COM
To see the rest of the photos from that day and of all the other drivers go to
http://www.amdrift.com/2014/12/just-drift-toy-drift-2-december-13-2014-gallery-2

Sunday, December 7, 2014

Adjusting Suspension at HTM

Killed it at Horse Thief Mile yesterday. Got the suspension all worked out and made some huge changes. The car was way to stiff before so I removed both the sway bars and changed the springrates to 10K front and 7K rear. I also used really nice Swift springs.


I had alot of great runs but unfortunately I accidental deleted most of the video...

Monday, December 1, 2014

Increasing Steering Angle without Increasing Front Track Width (40 Degrees)

 Its fairly easy to increase the angle on an S30 using the stock components. There are 4 things that you can do to increase the steering angle. You can shorten the knuckles, modify the inner tie rod, and fabricate or buy new lower control arms (LCA). Depending on your wheel/tire size you may need to remove the inner fender in front of the shock tower and you may need to cut out a portion of it behind the shock tower, I needed to do that.

Requirements for 40 degrees
If you are looking to get a modest amount of angle you must have a tubular front end, unless your running some crazy -offset wheels with spacers and some kind of crazy body kit/flares. You will also need lower control arms that have the tension rod incorporated into them like mine, the wheel will rub up on stock or aftermarket LCAs with the OEM design tension rods.





To modify the steering rack you remove the metal spacer and cut the extra threads off of the inner tie rods. Leave the lock nut because the inner tie rod likes to back out if you remove it.



















 The end of the rack should look like this when its all done. I have been using my rack like this for over a year with no problems.

To shorten your knuckles just remove them from the car, put them on a miter saw, cut a portion out of them and TiG weld them back together; you can MiG weld them but the bead is going to be much bigger and you will need to grind the face of the weld down which will compromise its strength. I cut mine 18mm, they weld very very nicely. Also make sure you weld them both the correct direction, take a picture of them before you cut them.

Lower Control Arms are needed because the stock ones are too wide and cannot be adjusted, the outer tire rod ball joint or heim will hit it and bind the suspension causing you to spin or have other problems. I fabricated mine using DOM tubing with high quality heims. The rub marks were caused by a set of tires I was using, they were too large, I changed to a smaller size.